4 photos
Anthony Bourdain sites. Ensenada - La Guerrerense
Maybe this belongs in the Ensenada thread, but that thread is totally dead. "Thread's dead, baby!" <groan!
I try to hit every AB site, in as many countries as possible. So, here's one:
If you want some of the very best ceviche on the planet, here it is. I think AB's term was Michelin-class. The middle-aged lady who runs it is justifiably famous. You see her on Mexican TV, US TV sometimes, and her stand has pix of her with all the famous Mexican chefs, as well AB and Rick Bayless.
Anyway, this tiny little ceviche cart, located on the corner of Lopez Mateos and Alvarado, serves up some of the best ceviche I've ever eaten, at unbelievably low prices. There is a line from morning until they run out of stuff, around dusk.
The white tostada pictured is the Ensalada de jaiba con callo de hacha. It was very good, but a bit bland for me and, at 70 pesos, there are better things. It was still delicious, and others were snarfing it up, so I may have been in the minority.
In the picture with two tostadas, the one of the left is the La Guerrerense, the one on the right is the Almeja. I have no idea what's in the La Guerrerense. Clams, fish, who knows what else? It's slightly sweet and addictive. The almeja is clams, onion, cilantro, citrus and, again, highly addictive. They don't present particularly well, but they are worth every centavo of the measly 18 peso price. They are expert at blending the various flavors together to make something simple, but delicioius.
This place alone is almost worth the drive to Ensenada. If you're going, make sure to stop here. Go early because they run out of everything by afternoon. I couldn't help myself and I went back in the afternoon and all they had was the almeja. Not that it was a bad thing. You could certainly do worse.
I apologize for not being able to sample more. After those 3 items I could eat no more. As I said, I went back later in the day, but virtually everything was gone. Next time...