Carnaval in Brazil

[John Cricket]

For those Carnaval-ophiles out there - if any of you are like me and haunt antiquarian bookshops, I found some mags in one recently - well actually I didn't find them - after arguing/talking carnaval with the owner and his wife for a while he dug them out of a pile for me - Nossa Historia is the name of them. The mag is no longer in print but back copies can be found and some have wonderful background articles on the development of Carnaval.

"Nossa História" is a history magazine puplished by the Brazilian National Library. Their "Carnaval" issue came out in 2007 or 2008, IIRC, and is well worth the purchase, as Christopherd points out. It can be found in better-stocked used bookstores, but I'm also pretty sure you can pick up a copy at the National Library on Rio Branco in Cinelândia.

Here's a link to its webpage, which can also be used to pick up back copies.

The magazine IS indeed still in print. I subscribe to it and just received the new issue (which is on railways) last week before Carnaval started.

[Pelicano]

For those Carnaval-ophiles out there - if any of you are like me and haunt antiquarian bookshops, I found some mags in one recently - well actually I didn't find them - after arguing/talking carnaval with the owner and his wife for a while he dug them out of a pile for me - Nossa Historia is the name of them. The mag is no longer in print but back copies can be found and some have wonderful background articles on the development of Carnaval.

Many years ago, living in the interior, far away from Rio, we all waited eagerly for the carnaval editions of: O Cruzeiro, Fatos e Fotos and Manchete, which had great color photos of the major carnaval balls of the day, as well as the street blocos, ranchos and samba schools. As adolescents, were mostly interested in seeing the scantily clad celebrities and famous unknown garotas of the day. We all dreamed of going to one of the balls at the Teatro Municipal. Bons tempos aqueles;Those were great times!

[Professor 1]

whoa! when i citied that link the first time it was about people trying to get lots of kisses at the blocos and now the headline is "**** carnival queen set to parade in rio". i am not implying that you should try to kiss her.

it would be the last female kiss that you receive before meeting your namorada nueva in pre-trial detention.

[Edward M]

http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20100214/...50bwlzc2lmew8-

whoa! when i citied that link the first time it was about people trying to get lots of kisses at the blocos and now the headline is "**** carnival queen set to parade in rio". i am not implying that you should try to kiss her.

[Jan 156]

For those Carnaval-ophiles out there - if any of you are like me and haunt antiquarian bookshops, I found some mags in one recently - well actually I didn't find them - after arguing/talking carnaval with the owner and his wife for a while he dug them out of a pile for me - Nossa Historia is the name of them. The mag is no longer in print but back copies can be found and some have wonderful background articles on the development of Carnaval.

[Edward M]

http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20100214/...50bWlzc2lmeW8-

[Jan 156]

Strong showing from Mangueira tonight at the technical rehearsal, thousands upon thousands of supporters in spite of the weather, every one of the bleachers filled to capacity. (I could see them from opposite, as I went with a flow that surged past security - but armed police there to stop us getting back lol). Very catchy tune, has you humming it within the first few bars. Instant classic feel to it. The alas (wings) were very well disciplined, best I´ve seen yet, and the coordinated lead group dances perfectly sychronised and coordinated. My guess is that if the floats and costumes are top, and they perform with the enthusiasm aqqnd polish they put into tonight´s rehearsal, Mangueira will do rarther well this year. (eg first time the rain comes down, everyone reaching for brolliles and plastic bags - I had a customised one thanks to someone I met. The second time it comes down, no-one is bothered - too busy waving and singing and enjoying the ´allegria.´) Last night, Imperatriz´ rehearsal was delayed for an hour and a half but went of pretty well. The passarela was dry by the time they eventually came on.

Mangueira´s Renata Santos´arrived in a reputedly rather expensive dress (nice eh?)

[Jan 156]

Thank you so much for posting your experience during the rehearsal! I really enjoyed it! Also, could you please expand more on this:

I was given, quite unexpectedly, a couple of moments to do a star turn with the leadining lady of my wing in the rehearsal, which was pretty mind-blowing. I will never forget it.

Valeu!

No problem. I was at the front line of our wing. There was a very long wait, as always, when we got into costume and waited to start. We practiced a nice routine and the leader of the wing tested us all on our samba and tried to convince herself that we knew all the words to the song. Possibly cos of my height rather than my limited samba talents, she placed me in the middle of the front row of her wing.

As you know, each wing is preceeded by a star couple or star performer. In our case, a star couple. Their job is to do lots of fancy dancing and woo the crowds. The woman, naturally, was drop dead gorgeous, and glammed up to the nines. If you are familiar with any of the dances where a partner is passed on to the next man, rueda style, you cannot mistake the signals when it happens and in this case, it was impossible of course to refuse!! Around the middle of the parade, the male dancer leads his partner out of their duet towards me and stands back. Wow! Talk about being put on the spot! Naturally I had to rise to the challenge. We danced together for about a minute and half and I felt like I was the centre of the universe. I have danced in national dance competitions in my home country, but never felt anything like this, even when I did well. Can you imagine - those stars are enough to take your breath away, even just being up close to them for a moment. And to dance with her!!! Yes, it is one of my most treasured moments. My dance was not particularly brilliant, but of course the man doesn´t have to be. He is the picture frame and the woman is the picture. At times of pressure our innermost instincts come out. My samba was ok, but I didn´t manage to fling my feet out as far from my body as possible, which is the man´s freedom in carnaval samba but not something you would do in other dances such as those I had practiced for years. I would have liked to be more of a ´star´for her. But I was honoured to have those few moments and not lose my beat. And eternally grateful to her partner for the oportunity of that moment.

[Sprite13]

Thank you so much for posting your experience during the rehearsal! I really enjoyed it! Also, could you please expand more on this:

I was given, quite unexpectedly, a couple of moments to do a star turn with the leadining lady of my wing in the rehearsal, which was pretty mind-blowing. I will never forget it.

Valeu!

[Jan 156]

Praca Onze Metro station is right next to the sambodromo, don't know if it will be open, as sometimes they might close it to avoid the crowds.

It´s a good point. Praca Onze seems to serve the seats and sectors on the west side and is the recommended station if you are in say Setor 4 or 6. I used it last year when I was in one of those setors.

I don´t know if it is the same for rehearsals. Crowd control is slightly different. I just went for the simple option along Vargas, hoping to get into Setor 1 or 3. When I got there however (about half an hour before Viradouro´s performance), Sambodromo was already bursting at the seams. From the Vargas end it looked like Carnaval proper. The slip stream of people I was in was directed to Sectors 5 and 7 as the closest that anyone was being let in.

I had a brilliant night. The highlight of my trip so far - by far. It would be a bit presumptious to say ´better than sex´ but definitely better than average sex.

My initial impressions for what they are worth - don´t take too much from them - I was slow to spot how good Salguero´s performance was last year. But I thought I´d share for those interested (and pussy details to tempt others not into Carnaval yet perhaps to read?)

Viradouro moved me most of the two. Do they have a smaller budget than Grande Rio perhaps. But it was a lot from the heart (a bit like Portela last year, I thought). There were lovely touches for which the crowd went wild. At one point the king takes the hand of a toddler from the edge of the parade strip, leads him onto the ground, and shows him how to blow kisses to the crowd and wave appreciately. The bateria section was introduced by a young dancer - maybe about 10yrs old - who had impeccable self-control and presence as well as perfect timing. And she danced without a break for ´rest´steps. You watch and think wow, that is a star of the future. A lot of people took the school colours of course - including one woman in front of me, dressed in black, but I noticed her panties were the exact team colour when she bent forward.

Grande Rio were pretty polished - except for the usual messiness in some of the wings where people get carried away in front of the crowds. The opening dance section had classically trained dancers that could move with balletic precision. So I had a bit of reluctance to engage emotionally after Viradouro - especially considering their theme - ´a grande emotion´. But by halfway through I was convinced. The whole Carnaval thing is about banging away at making you experience joy. Sustained joy. There is no other party performace like it in the world. And well before the bateria arrived, Grande Rio had people dancing on the concrete and waving wildly.

IF YOU ARE TAKING PART IN CARNAVAL OR EVEN JUST PLANNING TO ATTEND, DO PLEASE GO TO AT LEAST ONE TECHNICAL REHEARSAL IF YOU HAVE NEVER DONE SO.

There are many advantages. Firstly, it´s free. Secondly, it gives you an idea of the colossal size of things. Getting to grips with a rehearsal primes you for the even bigger event. The sheer size of things, getting to know what is where, getting in and out. Finding out how hard the concrete is in the bleachers (arquibancadas) and deciding if you want to take a cushion. (Even if you have bought a numbered seat, they are hard plastic, which dents your bottom after a few hours!) It gives you a practice run. For instance, I had forgotten to get the booklet with the words to the songs and it can be fun to sing along. Once you have a ´taster´ then you may find it easier to get involved in checking out the stories/themes, the meaning of the words in the songs (many don´t translate easily so reading up on it helps).

But there is one extra advantage. If you are taking part, I strongly urge you to go to the rehearsal. I enjoyed my rehearsal with Beija-Flor even more than the real thing in many ways. Firstly, the audience has a very high proportion of fans from your school. People who are not there to record the spectacle on their expensive camcorder. Just there cos they love you, love what you represent, love the school, and want to support you heart and soul.It really makes a difference when you are looking round from the parade ground, You realise there is no such thing as a ´nameless face´in the usual sense. Every expression counts. You return their adoration. Every face in Sambodrome is visible. You share the joy. It is a salutory lesson next time you are part of a big audience! Also if you are with teh school as a visitor, they may give you more leeway. (I was given, quite unexpectedly, a couple of moments to do a star turn with the leadining lady of my wing in the rehearsal, which was pretty mind-blowing. I will never forget it.) If you have already got your costume, your fantasia, you are entitled to attend the rehearsal. But you may be expected to wear the appropriate rehersal t-shirt or whatever (sold at discount) so you fulfil the overall (complex) colour scheme. Go along to the school´s section of Samba City, or at one of their parties (PM me if you are stuck and I will try to help as far as I can).

Getting out meant following diversions. The road diversions were still in place some time later after a fruitless trip to VM. The evening however did result in my first ´freebie´of this trip, which was nice. Two minutes at Balcony and I was turned off by the hard sell and the lack of anyone I wanted to really, really, f*ck. Dolce Vita, after being free entrance all week, had started charging 30R inc two drinks (ie same as Ciccolina´s). I couldn´t face Ciccolina´s. It is ok - not a scene I know that well, and the doorman´s advice to pay no more than 150R didn´t quite work for me, even if there had been anyone that seemed worth that with my rate of exchange.

I stop at Bar Alexandra and get chatting. I fancy the barmaid, but she looked exhausted. Another time maybe if I am exceedingly lucky. After extablishing that I don´t buy lady drinks as matter of course - not part of my culture - I get chatting to a tidy young lady, well-travelled. After 40 minutes or so I get her a drink as she has been good company. Can´t be bothered with the haggling that will follow if I vamos her. Interestingly, she tells me that one of the ladies in our group has asked her how much she charges to have sex with a woman (not an unwelcome offer as she has already told me she is genuinely bi-sexual, but she doesn´t chase it up.) Alexandra shuts and we move on to Bar Prado for the cheap beer. This is cheaper all round as the general rule is to buy a tall bottle and get several cups. The lady I have been chatting to is checking out her options so I wind her up a bit, refusing (but not too determinedly) the attentions of two other girls.One has made it clear she fancies me and is pursuing me. Another is a very good dancer and masseuse. After a demo from her, we try giving each other back and shoulder massages, which leads to more flirting of course. Now I still fancy the original girl. We share similar beliefs about many things (including religion - and manage to compromise on the buying drinks things). But she has built up her persona to the point I think she will start bidding high. Eventually I take the very tactile girl who fancies me aside and challenge her. I say that ok, she ´likes´me, bit this is copacabana, so the ´like´ also involves money, so would she put her cards on the table please. She says no money. I press her until I know she means it (ie and doesn´t really mean take her shopping the day after). She keeps repeating it till I know she´s sincere. I let her pay for the drinks she´s bought (personally I never keep a tab) and take her back. It´s amor rather than sex. She says she is not programma. Her friend is. We enjoy the starlight from my balcony. The evening is about kissing rather than whether kissing is included. This degree of genuine TLC is just what I need and hope it is what she was seeking too.

Afterwards I have an embarrassing moment. The kebab I bought on Pres.Vargas after the Sambodrome has disagreed with me, I throw up violently from both ends. She is very sweet, comforting. She stays till noon. The sex was lovely, affectionate. But I do not feel the earth moved sufficiently for either of us to carry on dating. We shall see.

Couple of footnotes. The teller in Ciccolina´s has the same puzzled-and-creative expression that the owner of Nog used to have when it was busier. He at one point he tries to charge me a silly amount for a coke. I challenge him and he rolls his eyes apologetically, indicating that he has to try it on for the owner, he is instructed to do so. I marvel at the ease with which Brasilians get out of tight situations without animosity.

Secondly, although Bar Prado and Estacao dos Doces next door are not as busy as they used to be, my general rule in case anyone is thinking of drinking there, is to be very wary leaving there with someone unless you know them from somewhere else. There are plenty of dodgy types there, and the out-and-out streetwalkers (the ones that will hardly get in to other places) drink there too.

I am torn. Do I cut short my plans to explore other parts of Brasil and stay for Carnaval here? It is my inclination in a way, although I know that for me it would completely take over. Another part of me wants to get away. Maybe Niteroi, whose knockshops I have still to explore more fully. There is one scary looking block I haven´t been in - allegedly a tourist was taken outside and shot. But I like Niteroi for the shopping, the lower prices, and sometimes its freshness. And if you don´t heer from me for a bit, it will be a decision to ímmerse´myself for a while, instead of this constant attachment to the internet (wither that, or I´ve been shot). But I did want to tell you about the tech rehearsals and I hope some others will go next weekend. For Beija-Flow fans, their party in Nilopolis is this Thursday.

[Pelicano]

Nice one pelicano. Sorry if I was not clear - I meant going to the technical rehearsal which is at Sambodromo tonight. Haven´t been to their quadra, but I guess they´ll be turning out in full support tonight. Any main Vargas bus of course (or practically any Mimosa bus of course for that matter) or twenty mins walk from Centro. Central station by Metro (5-10 mins walk) as the crowds will be at the Vargas end. Setting off soon.

Praca Onze Metro station is right next to the sambodromo, don't know if it will be open, as sometimes they might close it to avoid the crowds.
I wondered about that, as their website lists ensaio geral on saturday and comunity ensaio on Tuesday;

Ensaio da Comunidade
Todas as ***ças
Local: Quadra, Av. do Contorno, 16, Barreto, Niterói
Horário: 20h
Entrada: Franca

Ensaios de Quadra
Sábados
Horário: 22h
Local: Quadra, Av. do Contorno, 16, Barreto, Niterói
Entrada: R$ 10,00 (homem) e R$ 5,00 (mulher)

[Jan 156]

The 110 bus passeio-alcantara and sao goncalo goes right by the front of the Viradouro quadra. it leaves from the passeio, near the cinelandia metro station exit, corner with senador dantas. Costs R$6.50 and is air condittioned, takes about 45 minutes depending on traffic.

Nice one pelicano. Sorry if I was not clear - I meant going to the technical rehearsal which is at Sambodromo tonight. Haven´t been to their quadra, but I guess they´ll be turning out in full support tonight. Any main Vargas bus of course (or practically any Mimosa bus of course for that matter) or twenty mins walk from Centro. Central station by Metro (5-10 mins walk) as the crowds will be at the Vargas end. Setting off soon.

[Pelicano]

Anyone else going to Viradouro and/or Gand Rio tonight? PM me.

The 110 bus passeio-alcantara and sao goncalo goes right by the front of the Viradouro quadra. it leaves from the passeio, near the cinelandia metro station exit, corner with senador dantas. Costs R$6.50 and is air condittioned, takes about 45 minutes depending on traffic.

[Jan 156]

Anyone else going to Viradouro and/or Gand Rio tonight? PM me.

[Sprite13]

Chris,
As always, your insight into Carnaval and the culture is very appreciated in here and as always, oh so on the money. Parabens rapaiz!

Speaking of the enredos for this year, the ones to watch for, at least after having listened to the songs, are in no order, Mangueira, Beija Flor, Salgueiro, Viradouro, Mocidade and Imperatriz. All the songs can be heard in a wonderful little site I found just today (www.songsza.tv) Just enter on the search line the name of the school + 2010 and you'll have all the videos you can handle.

As usual, Mangueira comes up with extremely catchy enredos (songs) and I can see that one not only being once again chosen as the best samba enredo of the year (samba song) but also give Mangueira a solid chance of winning. But again, don't disregard the super heavy weights of Beija Flor, Salgueiro and Tijuca.