Thread: Cartagena Reports
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12-09-05 20:43 #1078
Posts: 712El Austriaco in Cartagena de Indias – Part I (General Stuff and CGFE)
(cont'd from the Barranquilla section)
CGFE is a new term to be added to the mongerer's list of abbreviations which either means "Columbian girlfriend experience" or "clingy girlfriend experience". Take your pick. They might be synonymous, anyway.
Took the door-to-door shuttle from Barranquilla to Cartagena de Indias for COP 25,000, which the reception desk of Hotel Boulevard 58 had arranged for me. You pay directly to the cab driver, pick-up at the hotel and transportation to your final destination. Trip time was roughly 2.5 hours, longer than excepted, and the driver certainly was not related to Juan Pablo Montoya (and the 60-year old lady from Bogotá in the front seat kept bitching about it). There was one military checkpoint just outside of Cartagena, but they waved us through. Left Barranquilla at around 4:PM, and arrived in Cartagena shortly after dark. As we made our way down the Cartagena waterfront, the streets were flooded pretty badly. Brought back flashbacks from Barranquilla, and yes, the intel I had gotten was correct… it had rained quite heavily in Cartagena, too.
Stayed at the Hotel da Pietro (http://www.pietro.com, website in Spanish, English, and Italian) after calling them from Barranquilla on the very same day. Da Pietro is located in a pretty busy section of Bocagrande, very close to Laguito. The address is Carrera 3 No.4-401, phone numbers (5) 665-2369, 665-8855, 665-1837, email hotel@pietro.com. Room cost was COP 95,000, breakfast included. Upon check-in, they asked for payment for the first night. The room was sort of smallish, but adequate. There are pictures on the website.
Cartagena is much more touristy than Barranquilla, which has its pros and cons, of course – as well as the pros and con artists. There are several inexpensive restaurants in this area (which does not necessarily include the adjoining Pizzeria da Pietro, owned by the same guy as the hotel, whose name is… not surprisingly… Pietro.). Needless to say, he was Italian, and both pizzeria and hotel were full of Italians (plus a pretty hard-partying group of young Colombians). There are several ATMs just around the corner from the hotel that worked for me, including BanSuperior (COP 400,000 withdrawal) and Colmena (COP 200,000 withdrawal). Surprisingly, I never ever hit the jackpot at Bancolombia. There is also no shortage of Internet/phone places in this area as well as supermarkets, drug stores, souvenir stores, etc. The front desk of the hotel can arrange for excursions and most common tourist activities. Unlike Barranquilla, you won’t get bored during the day. Also, the heat is not quite as suffocating… at least, it didn’t seem to me. Or maybe my body was simply adjusting a bit.
Cartagena is really a pretty interesting town – a strange combination of the “walled city” (what Havana would look like if they had repaired or painted anything in what, 200 years), the Miami beach-like Bocagrande area, and a touch of Vegas thrown in for good measure. The old town is superb, to say the least, and easily in the category of the French quarter in New Orleans. Cab from/to Bocagrande should run about COP 3,500 to 4,500. Spend a least a full day there exploring the streets. Better even, make it a morning and an afternoon on different days, after mixing in some beach action. It’s also interesting in the early evening. For later evening, stick to Bocagrande. I wasn’t too impressed with the beaches.
One afternoon, I took a chiva city tour (COP 25,000), which takes you to the Botas Viejas monument and then on to La Popa - Convento de la Candelaria, the church and convent overlooking the city. The driver might have been Montoya in disguise as we were screeching through the curves on the way up there. In ever curve, there was a white cross – they later explained to us they were stations for a religious procession up the hill, not fatal accident sites. I wouldn’t bet on it. Next, it was on to the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas fortress (pretty impressive), the Bóvedas (former stables converted into souvenir shops and artists' studios) and, to top things of, a visit to an emerald factory (actually, just around the corner from the da Pietro). Of course. They did a drawing for a small emerald there, one for the gals, one for the guys, and everyone had to call out a number. The first guy, an American who didn’t speak any Spanish, called out 7… and got it. I just wanted to stab the guy. Insider sources tell me the guy got mugged by an Austrian tourist right outside five minutes later. No, just kidding.
Did another night tour on a chiva, of the rumbera variety, cost COP 25,000 per person. Went with a non-pro (the second time I went out with her), and it was a lot of fun. For those that are not familiar with the concept, a chiva rumbera is basically a colorful party bus, and the tour takes from about 7 to midnight. They provide you with a bottle of rum (Tres Esquinas) plus a bottle of coke per couple, put a live band on the bus, and off you go. First stop at the city walls for dancing in the dark, with a dance show, second stop at a local disco in El Laguito for some more partying. The bus went directly on the beach… really cool. In between, you just drive around getting hammered: you finish your bottle, you get another one. To ensure that people wouldn’t change seats (or booze) during the trip, all the rows have an inscription on the roof to assist you in finding your seat even under the influence. Mine read “La adolescencia es la transición entre la infelididad y el adulterio”. In plain English: “Adolescence is the transition from infidelity to adultery”. How appropriate.
My companion didn’t seen to disagree, because when we got back to the hotel at around midnight, she insisted on checking out the in-room facilities, and da Pietro didn’t see a problem, either (at no extra charge). She ended up checking out a whole lot more than that (and me, too), before finally leaving at 2:00 AM (you know, the good girl thing). Highly recommended (the chiva rumbera tour, I mean). Horny chicks and booze, works like a charm every time.
For next day, I had booked at tour to the Rosario islands, and she wanted to come along, so we went. COP 50,000 per person, though this does not include the entrance fee into the natural park (about COP 8,400, if I remember correctly, payable at the tourist dock right across the street from the Torre del Reloj downtown). The boat ride was hilarious, and lucky me, the weather was spectacular. Some pictures at http://www.cartagenacaribe.com/donde...delrosario.htm. I also recommend the Acuario San Martin (entrance COP 12,000 per person). The show where they are feeding the sharks is really pretty eerie. Spent most of the time on the Isla de la Media Naranja (“Soul Mate Island”... was fate trying to tell me something?) Very relaxed, nice turquoise waters to swim, no snorkeling, though. The by now self-anointed Cartagenera girl friend bought a crab from a local fisher and had him prepare it right there and then (COP 20,000). Nice. I highly recommend this excursion.
One really cool restaurant my attachment took me to was the Club de Pesca in Manga, Fuerte de San Sebastian del Pastelillo, phone 660 58 63 - 660 70 65 - 660 45 94, fax: 660 59 81, email: restaurante@clubdepesca.com. Their website is in Spanish and English (http://www.clubdepesca.com/home.htm). The restaurant is located directly on the fort and has a very nice terrace overlooking Cartagena Bay, pretty pricy, needless to say, and small portions. The place to take your special honey. Reservations recommended. According to their website, the restaurant has welcomed 46 Presidents or Chiefs of State and even served Pope Paul II. Makes it a must stop on any itinerary of any Catholic mongerers like me.
Ended up spending most of my time the next couple of days with my new accidental wife, hanging out in the old city, getting to know her family, exploring middle class Colombian life. One evening, some of her brothers and sisters took me to hang on the beach in Boquilla, past the airport, which was a nice experience. Pretty unforgettable sitting in the dark between two minivans blasting Vallenato and Champeta into the Cartagena night, drinking beer under the stars. One brother kept telling me about his cab and bus company, referring to his mid-sized buses as “busetas”. I guess I must have spent too much time in Brazil, where “buceta” has a totally different meaning :). I am sure this irony eluded him, and maybe that’s why he kept wondering about the strange smile on my face.
And as nice as his sister certainly was, unfortunately, she was severely curtailing my P4P research time. This problem was compounded by the fact that she was on vacation at the time and that I was in Cartagena longer than initially planned. Wanted to spend some time in Cali and/or Medellin, but flights from either Cartagena or Barranquilla to either city were in the COP 600,000 to COP 1,000,000 range for my travel dates (November 25-28), so I ultimately decided to skip this part of the trip and leave it for another time. I also thought about spending time in Santa Marta, but my GF’s family had business there, and every time I wanted to go, she was keen on accompanying me (which would have defeated my P4P and non-pro interests there). Managed to spend some time away from her back in Barranquilla ultimately to spend time with my other non-pro, but she was sweet enough to see me off in BAR before I left to the airport. But what am I complaining about – I was getting laid for free and pretty good. Still, I never got around to meeting my chick from Caracas that was there attending a conference and had expressed great interesting in displaying her brand-new silicon tits for me, nor this cute dark morena girl at the modeling agency. Damn. I guess you can’t have everything… though trying sure is fun.
As the “heartless mongerer” that Dollar Bill always describes me, of course, I was not going to let a GF entirely prevent me from exploring Cartagena’s nightlife a bit more, and I actually got started before I even met her in person. Afterwards, investigating P4P meant spending some late-night hours for the benefit of the ISG community. But lucky me, I am resourceful :)
One more thing, before I address Cartagena P4P: getting back to BAR was just as easy as getting to Cartagena: COP 25,000 for door-to-door service, although this time, transportation was done in a minivan rather than in a cab. Hotel front desk arranged for it. I left Cartagena at 2:00 PM and was in my hotel room in Barranquilla by 4:00 PM. There were definitely more military checkpoints during the day, five to six, although we got stopped only once, right before getting into Barranquilla, on the outskirts. Had to leave the van, and the soldiers did a cursory search. No ID asked for, no words exchanged, as a matter of fact.
(to be cont’d)
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12-06-05 03:13 #1077
Posts: 383I'm proud of you BRO!
Gipse! Damn still sounds a tad bit high, but at least you stuck to your guns, and did not pay 200K! Remind me to buy your ass a beer!
I was in San Andres, and me and my girl decided to play Hooker John at the local pro shop, I get there first for and I'm talking to a Pro she tells me $300,000 I talk her down to I think $175,000. My novia walks in, in this little Catholic School Girl outfit, my girl walks over and ask me, Papi how much she want to charge you? I tell her $200,000, she tells me damn you fine I only charge you $100,000, man a cat fight just about broke out, I had to tell the pro no no she's novia! That shit was so damn funny and hot!
I say we Mongers boycott of LDV, picket the place, have a 60's type sit in! HELL NO WE WON'T PAY MORE THEN A 100K!
Originally Posted by Gipse
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12-05-05 22:42 #1076
Posts: 23Tit Bits
Pricing - there is no stopping the upwards trend. I stuck firm to the 120k p ST and 150k p LT because I was willing to walk away and all of them caved in, eventually. One even argued in the morning. They told me that they often get 200k p for LT nowadays. I even over heard a couple of deals being sealed at 200k p LT and 150k p ST. I bet a year from now this will be standard price. Unfortunately, not everyone reads this web site.
Mongers - many gringos, way too many. In a few years, it is going to be as bad as Rio. We are loud but the Italians are worse. Good not to be at the bottom of the likability scale.
Places - LDV was hopping most of the days, the slow day being Sunday. Last time the pros were upstairs in Tu Candela. This time they were everywhere and a lot more of them. La Trippletera was still sparcely populated and mostly with men. The lookers were few and far between. Giro Matto, the music is just not for me specially at 3-4am at night.
Motels - found a few walk-in motels in the old city for 30k p to 40k p a night. A couple of them were pretty decent. Did not ask for the short term rate. In the evening there was a steady stream of young Colombian lovers walking in, cute. As soon as I remember the names I will post them.
Apartments - Paid $50 per night for a nice apartment with a view AC included hot water excluded.
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12-05-05 21:14 #1075
Posts: 349Originally Posted by Zing23
You can get anything from basic to fine quality. The best one I've tried was in Cali. It was a real pad. With outdoor courtyard, steam room, jacuzzi, TV w/ porn, Hi-fi, big bed with mirror on the ceiling, nice bathroom facilities and some complimentary drinks. Cost for 3 hours -- 35k, which is about US$15.
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12-05-05 12:54 #1074
Posts: 1180Ac
Apartments with AC are more upscale. By Colombian standards electricity is very expensive in Cartagena Estrato 6. Renters tend to turn the AC on and blast it the entire time they are around. Some even leave the windows open while the AC is on. The electricity cost alone can add over US$100 per month.
LP, thanks for your offer.
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12-05-05 07:20 #1073
Posts: 2656Moteles del Amor
Zing,
Love motels are quite common in Puerto Rico. Most college girls live in single sex dorms or have room mates in their apartments, so these places are indispensable. Ironically, due to the "good girls don't fuck before marriage" mentality on the island most girls would rather go to a love motel where they can remain anonymous than go to a more upscale hotel where they might be recognized.
Married men and women also make use of these places for the numerous affairs that take place on a daily basis. In fact, if you wait until late at night it would be very difficult to find a motel with available rooms. The staff usually writes down the tag number of your car just in case you decide to leave a body behind or something of that nature. I would be careful about using one in South America if I had any doubts about security.
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12-04-05 23:15 #1072
Posts: 383Just showing up?
Funny how that works, AC can really add an additional few hundred a month?
I emailed Ventura, both about buying and renting so I'll see! I was even thinking about Renting or buying by the Airport, or the old city, they both seem to be descent parts of town!
Tom, trust me I greatly appreciate your help and time! And if there is anything that you need from the States just let me know, as long as it fits into a suitcase!
Originally Posted by Tom 33
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12-04-05 22:40 #1071
Posts: 1180Lp
You can spend less if you don't need AC. I need it. You get the best deals by just showing up. Then go apartment shopping. You can pay much more or much less. Only you can really decide what is good enough.
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12-04-05 21:43 #1070
Posts: 383Tom33 Thanks as always for the information!
$900 a month for an Apartment, aint that a bit high?
I'm thinking about coming down there for a month or two, and really case out the joint. prior to making any serious moves!
Originally Posted by Tom 33
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12-04-05 16:15 #1069
Posts: 840motels
Yesterday I was talking to a Columbiana in St Maarten about going to a hotel for a couple of hours. She complained that in St Maarten there were no "Motels d'amor", which she said were common in Columbia.
A Motel d'Amor is a row of rooms with attached garages. You drive into an empty garage, press a button, talk to the office, negotiate a price for however many hours you want, put the money in a slot, and enter the room. No personal contact with the motel people - no one sees you or knows who you are.
I know most mongers in Columbia probably don't have cars or the need for this service, but it sounds imminently practical. Has anyone ever used such a Motel d'Amor?
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12-04-05 11:01 #1068
Posts: 1180Lp
Contact Juan Ventura http://www.zepelion.com/apartamentos/index.htm.
A good price would depend on the location and amenities. Apartments without air conditioning are much less expensive. Hot water is normally not available. You can expect a lower price per day with a 60-day rental. You are probably looking at US$30 to 50 per night.
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12-04-05 08:41 #1067
Posts: 383Rental Help!
Looking for a simi long term rental 30 to 60 days! No preference on the area as long as it somewhat of a nice area!
What would be a good price?
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12-04-05 04:11 #1066
Posts: 1807I think it's "Cocoliso". I stayed at San Pedro de Majagua on same island (Isla Grande), which I thought was nice but overpriced. I liked the island though.
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12-03-05 14:05 #1065
Posts: 1180Playa Blanca
is on Isla de Baru which is not part of the Rosarios.
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12-02-05 23:08 #1064
Posts: 23Rosario Islands
Originally Posted by Gipse
Isla Del Encanto - Nice place, great beach
Cololisa Isla Resort - Nice hotel, great pool, ok beach
Isla del Pirata - Small island, no beach, very private
"God helps those who help themselves"