A nicer way to get to Mimosa (via Afonso Pena)
The nicer way to VM
I´ve kind of advocated this route for a few years, but it struck me today that, with increased Metro traffic from Ipanema, it might be even more attractive. So here´s some directions for those interested.
A big advantage is you don´t have to change Metro lines. This is especially nice if you go in rush hour (the time I personally use the Metro to get to VM). You just play sardines on a carriage, squashed between everyone else, and don´t have to move till you get off at Afonso Pena.
The next big advantage is that Afonso Pena to Praca da Bandeira is a very nice walk. I don´t think anyone would say Cristovao to Bandeira is nice - just straightforward. But Afonso Pena is easy when you have done it once and takes roughly the same time. Plus there are many nice upmarket bars and restaurants on the route.
[b]Here´s how -[/b]
Stay on the train all the way from Copa or Ipanema till it gets to Afonso Pena. It´s the third stop after Central. Or the fifth one after Uruguiana. When you get off, turn right and take the PRACA exit. You come out onto the square. Cross to the (diagonally) opposite corner of the square and keep going along the main road (Campos Sales). You´ll see a big building on your right marked America FC, so you know you have come off the correct corner of the square.
At the end of Campos Sales you´ll see [i]Trigus Restaurant[/i] facing you at the T-junction. Turn right - it is signposted Maracana/Cristovao/Centro. Follow this street (Mariz e Barros) till it comes out onto Praca da Bandeira.
[i](Once you know the area, you can take a slight short cut along Goncalves Crespo, but I thought I´d give the simple route first.)[/i]
[b]Pr.Bandeira[/b]
If you have been to VM already, you are probably familiar with this bit. I´ll include it here partly for newbies and partly cos the appearance has changed quite a lot recently.
Praca da Bandeira is a big concourse to the west of Presidente Vargas. Mimosa is directly north of it by a hundred yards or so. If you are looking on a map, find Vargas, the big east-west street that crosses Rio Branco in Centro, and run your finger to the left. Just past the end of Vargas (and just after a spaghetti junction) is Praca da Bandeira. And also an inverted triangle above the main thoroughfare. This is where Mimosa lies.
If you arrive by road or from Cristovao station, you are probably already on the north side of Bandeira. If not (for instance, if you came via Afonsa Pena), just cross by the footbridge which spans the many lanes of fast traffic. This footbridge used to be blue but is now just white. As you cross, if it is dark, glance to your right and you may see a huge bridge floodlit in impressive colours not far off. The area is not dangerous as such, just keep yourself to yourself. There are many working class families about.
On the north (Mimosa) side of Praca da Bandeira, there is now an enormous long white railway bridge that looks like some superhighway from the Restaurant at the end of the Universe. This makes the area [i]almost[/i] unrecognisable from the mess it was before. Go under the new bridge and over a foul-smelling river, and under the other adjacent steel bridges. Follow the street (Rua Ceara) past the bikers and just past the bend in the road. Turn right onto Sotero dos Reis. If you cross the railway level crossing you have gone too far. VM is the little village of bars half way along.