Field Notes: In Search of Dangdut.
[QUOTE=MontanaMonger;2191421]. This next trip I do plan to put more effort into the Dangdut thing.[/QUOTE]Dangdut clubs! I encourage you to explore, MotanaMonger! They're a lot of fun.
As always, I yield to the superior experience of those who have gone before me, like Smoothy, et. Al. I don't have any wild stories to share, but, in pursuit of fun in Jakarta, have something to report on dangdut.
The places I would recommend in Jakarta don't have a lone sexy singer perched on a high stage gyrating (ngebor, or drilling, as they say) before a huge crowd of hormone-addled teens and young adults.
The clubs I recommend offer some weird mixture between the intimacy of a jazz bar (for music) and the intimacy of a striptease club (for everything else).
Sadly, my favorite venue. Cafe Skorpion in the Permata Hotel and Restaurant on Jl. Pencenogan. Has been shuttered. It's diamond-shaped neon sign has gone dark and the lobby's stuffed tiger (likely resold on Tokopedia.
There are a few other choices, though.
First would be Cafe Asmoro on Jl, Blora, just steps away from Grand Indonesia. Other nearby clubs, like Lone Star, have closed down, but Asmoro remains. It outlived the punk rock venue that was once on the second floor, which, shall we say, attracted quite a different crowd. I must have moved my way through 75 percent of the city's riotgrrl punk crowd there.
As another person wrote about Asmoro: "The first time you hate it because you don't understand it. The third time, the place is yours and you are the queen of the dance floor, requesting "Kucing Garong."
Asmoro is accessible. Tourists are seen there sometimes. I've bought regular civilian Indonesian girlfriends there and they've laughed and had a blast. In the olden days, there used to be a lot of hanky panky going on on Jl. Blora. A lot of places and girls short-time action. While that's no more, there's the occasional working girl sitting at the warungs late late at night.
There's also the dangdut clubs from the Menteng Group hotels: Cafe Iguana in the Hotel Menteng I off of Jl. Cikini; and the nightclubs in the Hotel Grand Menteng (which is nowhere near Menteng, but on Jl. Matraman) and the Hotel Mega Matra (which is also on Jl. Matraman).
I've seen Rhoma Irama impersonators and some of the sexier "Duo" or "Trio" acts at these places.
The MO is the same. MC will be friendly, and wearing a shabby, ill-fitting suit. On a microphone from the stage, he'll work the crowd and keep the show moving. Regulars will be welcomed, newcomers greeted. He will introduce the singers and remind you that requests are welcome.
On stage: a band of 12 talented journeyman musicians who know how to jam.
In the crowd: middle-aged Javanese men who, when sufficiently inebriated, will take to the dance floor, waving Rp 50,000 notes as they dance with the singers. The lads will also tip to take the microphone to render their own versions of favorite songs.
The girls will all be in high heels and squeezed into tight shiny dresses. Some will be young, pretty and sullen. Some will be overweight, cute blowsy and flirty. Most will be in their late 20's and early 30's, with too much make-up.
All can sing! All will dance! It's a lot of high-spirited fun!
After finishing a set, the girls will walk through the crowd shaking hands. It's your chance to tip the girls again, or to invite them for a drink. (NB: There are no ladies drinks, just regular drinks).
Dangdut songs cover the same topics as country / western songs: my wife gone left me, my cheating man, she just don't love me no more. Buy a dangdut singer a drink (or tip her while talking to her) and you'll hear similar stories.
Usually they're janda (widowed or divorced), with some sad story about why they're singing in this club. There's a circuit that the singers follow among the Menteng Group clubs. Some even work on contracts in mining or logging camps in Kalimantan.
Pro? Semi-pro? At this point, we don't know. As is typical in Jakarta, hijinks ensure when men with full wallets meet women with empty wallets. I've met a few of the singers outside the club and had a grand time.
TL; DR Dangdut clubs are not a cash-extraction machine like Malioboro or Classic. The experience is not as raw as the girly clubs. It really is about the music and some mild fun with the girls, who you might be able to meet outside the club.
Enjoy Jakarta!
Oh man this would be VERY good news. !
[QUOTE=JohnAldrich;2193694]Is it true that Maribaya is going to open after Ramadan in a new Avatar, after refurbishing. Does anyone know.[/QUOTE]I don't know anything, went by in March went I passed through the Big Durian and was unable to find out what had happened / was happening.