Siem Reap

[QUOTE=Berny X]Seen alot of stuff all over the internet, what times to go, guides, etc. Anybody here have any or know of a private guide to contact? Seen alot that a guide (actually can be with a group) is the way to go.[/QUOTE]

Well archaeologists like sex too . . . But that aside, to get back to Berny's question . . .

Almost any hotel will supply you with a moto or tuk-tuk + guide. But the thing is they will yadder away and, even with the sensitive ones, you get into information overload very early on. My example was, imagine going to a world cup match with a guide who explained why some people were trying to get a ball in one direction, why others ran after it, why there was a big following for certain players, how the teams differed and so on. If you'd never been to a ball game before, you can't take it in much less experience the emotion of it.

Siem Reap is a nicer place to go than PP as a regular tourist, but the high point is definitely the Angkor Wat complex (which is many times bigger than Siem Reap itself). It is the biggest religious site in the world and central to Cambodian culture.

Here's my tips:
1) Get a three day pass. Even if you take the middle day off. You're not under time pressure and can enjoy exploring. The queue, when I went, is much less for the 3-day than the one day.
2) Unless you want everything served up with the hordes, do the main parts in the opposite direction to the tours - that way you can explore Ta Phrom for instance (the overgrown-with-trees temple used in Lara Croft) with no-one else around. Do it after the main Angkor Wat instead of going on to Bakheng.
3) It is *essential* to get to the main temple before sunrise if you want to make the best of it. This is when you get the photos that all your friends will be dumbstruck over. Set off from Siem Reap about half an hour before sunrise, get your pass, and take up your position outside the pond. Take extra batteries/film/memory cards.
4)Study a map and some sort of guidebook before you go, just so you have an idea of the layout and the enormity of the area. That way you can take charge and tell your driver where you want to go next. (He will deposit you outside each one and wait for you, unless you are paying him as a guide as well.) You can download maps and guides or any of the LonelyPlanet type guides have more or less the same info.
5)You might want to take a hat or something to cover your head unless you plan to take a long break at lunchtime (your driver or guide will expect a break btw). It gets exceedingly hot. Also there are no decent restaurants in the complex so you have to buy mostly snack foods or take your own.
6)A tuk-tuk can be more relaxing than a moto as you can sit back and look at your maps or whatever between stops. I swapped around.

Now to get the best experience, and I've mentioned this several times on the board, you need to emotionally connect. You won't do it with a guide or guide book. The outstanding, award-winning novel The King's Last Song is the reading to have before you go or enjoy while you're there IMO. It will take you from the building of Angkor Wat, the religious, political and cultural upheavals, the importance of Jayavarman VII, and then right up to date with the perspective of modern Cambodians. But above that it is a superb and gripping novel. It makes it easy to imagine the temples in use, specific gates, the significant shift to Buddhism from Hinduism, and brings it all alive in a gut-wrenching tale.

(On another post I've given the contact details for a reliable ex-army moto-driver, but you'll know after the first day if you have a good one or a lazy sh*te. Test their English a bit before you hire them and try to avoid being drawn in to promises beyond one day. The 'day's hire' ends at sunset usually so you have to negotiate separately for about town for pdp, which I found easier to do ad hoc as most pdp is walking distance anyway.)

If after this you still prefer to get a guide, you can at least get an authorised one rather than an off-duty policeman or off-school kid. Check at the museum. (The museum also gives quite a good - if expensive - multimedia intro if you don't read the Geoff Rymans book mentioned above.)

[QUOTE=Christopherd]Well archaeologists like sex too . . . But that aside, to get back to Berny's question . . .

Almost any hotel will supply you with a moto or tuk-tuk + guide. But the thing is they will yadder away and, even with the sensitive ones, you get into information overload very early on. My example was, imagine going to a world cup match with a guide who explained why some people were trying to get a ball in one direction, why others ran after it, why there was a big following for certain players, how the teams differed and so on. If you'd never been to a ball game before, you can't take it in much less experience the emotion of it.

Siem Reap is a nicer place to go than PP as a regular tourist, but the high point is definitely the Angkor Wat complex (which is many times bigger than Siem Reap itself). It is the biggest religious site in the world and central to Cambodian culture.

Here's my tips:

1) Get a three day pass. Even if you take the middle day off. You're not under time pressure and can enjoy exploring. The queue, when I went, is much less for the 3-day than the one day.

2) Unless you want everything served up with the hordes, do the main parts in the opposite direction to the tours - that way you can explore Ta Phrom for instance (the overgrown-with-trees temple used in Lara Croft) with no-one else around. Do it after the main Angkor Wat instead of going on to Bakheng.

3) It is *essential* to get to the main temple before sunrise if you want to make the best of it. This is when you get the photos that all your friends will be dumbstruck over. Set off from Siem Reap about half an hour before sunrise, get your pass, and take up your position outside the pond. Take extra batteries/film/memory cards.

4) Study a map and some sort of guidebook before you go, just so you have an idea of the layout and the enormity of the area. That way you can take charge and tell your driver where you want to go next. (He will deposit you outside each one and wait for you, unless you are paying him as a guide as well.) You can download maps and guides or any of the LonelyPlanet type guides have more or less the same info.

5) You might want to take a hat or something to cover your head unless you plan to take a long break at lunchtime (your driver or guide will expect a break btw). It gets exceedingly hot. Also there are no decent restaurants in the complex so you have to buy mostly snack foods or take your own.

6) A tuk-tuk can be more relaxing than a moto as you can sit back and look at your maps or whatever between stops. I swapped around.

Now to get the best experience, and I've mentioned this several times on the board, you need to emotionally connect. You won't do it with a guide or guide book. The outstanding, award-winning novel The King's Last Song is the reading to have before you go or enjoy while you're there IMO. It will take you from the building of Angkor Wat, the religious, political and cultural upheavals, the importance of Jayavarman VII, and then right up to date with the perspective of modern Cambodians. But above that it is a superb and gripping novel. It makes it easy to imagine the temples in use, specific gates, the significant shift to Buddhism from Hinduism, and brings it all alive in a gut-wrenching tale.

(On another post I've given the contact details for a reliable ex-army moto-driver, but you'll know after the first day if you have a good one or a lazy sh*te. Test their English a bit before you hire them and try to avoid being drawn in to promises beyond one day. The 'day's hire' ends at sunset usually so you have to negotiate separately for about town for pdp, which I found easier to do ad hoc as most pdp is walking distance anyway.)

If after this you still prefer to get a guide, you can at least get an authorised one rather than an off-duty policeman or off-school kid. Check at the museum. (The museum also gives quite a good - if expensive - multimedia intro if you don't read the Geoff Rymans book mentioned above.)[/QUOTE]Thanks for the advice, just a couple of questions.

1) Do you have to pay the admission price for the guide?

2) I'm not opposed to a small tour group in order to network with others.

3) How bout a mid range hotel in the middle of things or pretty close to the action

(On another post I've given the contact details for a reliable ex-army moto-driver, but you'll know after the first day if you have a good one or a lazy sh*te. Test their English a bit before you hire them and try to avoid being drawn in to promises beyond one day. The 'day's hire' ends at sunset usually so you have to negotiate separately for about town for pdp, which I found easier to do ad hoc as most pdp is walking distance anyway.)

Where can I find these contact details?

Thanks

[QUOTE=Berny X](On another post I've given the contact details for a reliable ex-army moto-driver, but you'll know after the first day if you have a good one or a lazy sh*te. Test their English a bit before you hire them and try to avoid being drawn in to promises beyond one day. The 'day's hire' ends at sunset usually so you have to negotiate separately for about town for pdp, which I found easier to do ad hoc as most pdp is walking distance anyway.)

Where can I find these contact details?

Thanks[/QUOTE]

click on my name then go to 'other posts by this user' - can't remember which section I put them in

[QUOTE=Christopherd]click on my name then go to 'other posts by this user' - can't remember which section I put them in[/QUOTE]Any idea around what date you posted it?

[QUOTE=Berny X]Thanks for the advice, just a couple of questions.

1) Do you have to pay the admission price for the guide?

2) I'm not opposed to a small tour group in order to network with others.

3) How bout a mid range hotel in the middle of things or pretty close to the action[/QUOTE]

There's not really a hotel at all in the middle of things as far as the temples go. The Angkor wat complex streches a long way north of Siem Reap town and also includes some outlying temples in other directions. It's not feasible to just stroll round - you need transport.

Technically closest are the hotels in the north - there's a good one mentioned on the board - but if you want to be near to the pdp action you want to be in Old Town - Mandalay etc (see my post on hotels somewhere or other) in the south. But it is not a big deal. Siem Reap is very small. Whatever hotel you get you will need to get up before sunrise to make the journey to Angkor Wat. There are no hotels situated in the precincts of Angkor Wat (think national reserve area - building is forbidden). There are some hotels just outside of town and a little nearer but not much point in staying there really - it's only moments difference on a motorbike, you still need transport and why be stuck in the middle of nowhere.

There are lots of different deals and an official guide maybe gets a different rate but if you just take someone who offers to guide you they will need a pass same as anyone else. Your moto driver will take you through the ticketing office on the road out and on into the grounds but not go into the temples themselves.

[QUOTE=Christopherd]There's not really a hotel at all in the middle of things as far as the temples go. The Angkor wat complex streches a long way north of Siem Reap town and also includes some outlying temples in other directions. It's not feasible to just stroll round - you need transport.

Technically closest are the hotels in the north - there's a good one mentioned on the board - but if you want to be near to the pdp action you want to be in Old Town - Mandalay etc (see my post on hotels somewhere or other) in the south. But it is not a big deal. Siem Reap is very small. Whatever hotel you get you will need to get up before sunrise to make the journey to Angkor Wat. There are no hotels situated in the precincts of Angkor Wat (think national reserve area - building is forbidden). There are some hotels just outside of town and a little nearer but not much point in staying there really - it's only moments difference on a motorbike, you still need transport and why be stuck in the middle of nowhere.

There are lots of different deals and an official guide maybe gets a different rate but if you just take someone who offers to guide you they will need a pass same as anyone else. Your moto driver will take you through the ticketing office on the road out and on into the grounds but not go into the temples themselves.[/QUOTE]Yeah I wanted to be near wherever the bars are so I can walk to them at night, or a short tuk tuk ride.

[QUOTE=Berny X]Thanks for the advice, just a couple of questions.

1) Do you have to pay the admission price for the guide?

2) I'm not opposed to a small tour group in order to network with others.

3) How bout a mid range hotel in the middle of things or pretty close to the action[/QUOTE]



1) No, all guides going into Angkor provide their own methods of entry so again, do not have to pay them except for their negotiated price for their time showing you around the temples.

2) small group tours could sometimes be arrange with their visitor center or some hotels, never tried it but heard others have done this.

3)Siem reap is the heart of all "action" and they have anything from cheap (under $10/nite) to 5star luxury hotels for over $300/nite and everything in between. Unless its high season, no need to book ahead, just drop into any place and room are generally available (its how I did it twice in the past). Another reason I don't book ahead is because I like to see and smell the place before I put down any payment.


PT

Khmers don't pay to go to Angkhor (or at least that's what my driver said 4 years ago)

If any of you guys go there and up late beware of a guy named Ross. He laughts alot and smokes from a pipe. The guy party's too much. I tried hanging with him and hit every disco in Siem Reap. Finally after sampling the best of Cambodia I realized it was 7:30 am. We left the hotel at about 10 pm. Good guy but likes others to pay for his gin and tonic. Never did get any pussy that nice because because I don't think he likes pussy! Don 't like men but never showed any interest other than partying. Good night of drinking and s***ing out the best Cambodia (hehehe).

3 days of temples is too much if you ask me. 2 days is better and hang around Pub Street and have some beers.

For you guys that like to wear shorts, beware of the mosquitoes Got fever for 2 days I think because of them and if it wasn't for the woman I met I would have never made it back to VN. Woke up in the middle of night wanting more but instead shouted to me I was on fire. Had wet towels on me all night. Sweet woman to take care of me. A true GFE experience. So beware. Don't wear shorts.

[QUOTE=Dinghy]Khmers don't pay to go to Angkhor (or at least that's what my driver said 4 years ago)[/QUOTE]

Yeah, I think you're maybe right.

On hotels, Mandalay is a good option alongside the pdp area - cheap, good hygeinic food at $2, girl friendly of course, and some English spoken among good staff. Only downsiide was I heard of people being overcharged if they booked ahead, which is unnecessary, as someone's pointed out. If you feel uneasy about that, book for one night and insist on the room/charge you want and see advertised without being 'sold up'. There are one or two hotels more in teh 'heart' of it but you might also get noise (think I report on hotels if anyone wants to check).

[QUOTE=Christopherd]Yeah, I think you're maybe right.

On hotels, Mandalay is a good option alongside the pdp area - cheap, good hygeinic food at $2, girl friendly of course, and some English spoken among good staff. Only downsiide was I heard of people being overcharged if they booked ahead, which is unnecessary, as someone's pointed out. If you feel uneasy about that, book for one night and insist on the room/charge you want and see advertised without being 'sold up'. There are one or two hotels more in teh 'heart' of it but you might also get noise (think I report on hotels if anyone wants to check).[/QUOTE]

I've also been suggest, these
Angkor Holiday, radiu angkor star, steungsiemreap. Would you know of their girl friendliness?

[QUOTE=Saltydog]If any of you guys go there and up late beware of a guy named Ross. He laughts alot and smokes from a pipe. The guy party's too much. I tried hanging with him and hit every disco in Siem Reap. Finally after sampling the best of Cambodia I realized it was 7:30 am. We left the hotel at about 10 pm. Good guy but likes others to pay for his gin and tonic. Never did get any pussy that nice because because I don't think he likes pussy! Don 't like men but never showed any interest other than partying. Good night of drinking and s***ing out the best Cambodia (hehehe).

3 days of temples is too much if you ask me. 2 days is better and hang around Pub Street and have some beers.

For you guys that like to wear shorts, beware of the mosquitoes Got fever for 2 days I think because of them and if it wasn't for the woman I met I would have never made it back to VN. Woke up in the middle of night wanting more but instead shouted to me I was on fire. Had wet towels on me all night. Sweet woman to take care of me. A true GFE experience. So beware. Don't wear shorts.[/QUOTE]

Mosquito repelant usually works well

[QUOTE=Saltydog]If any of you guys go there and up late beware of a guy named Ross. He laughts alot and smokes from a pipe. The guy party's too much. I tried hanging with him and hit every disco in Siem Reap. Finally after sampling the best of Cambodia I realized it was 7:30 am. We left the hotel at about 10 pm. Good guy but likes others to pay for his gin and tonic. Never did get any pussy that nice because because I don't think he likes pussy! Don 't like men but never showed any interest other than partying. Good night of drinking and s***ing out the best Cambodia (hehehe).

3 days of temples is too much if you ask me. 2 days is better and hang around Pub Street and have some beers.

For you guys that like to wear shorts, beware of the mosquitoes Got fever for 2 days I think because of them and if it wasn't for the woman I met I would have never made it back to VN. Woke up in the middle of night wanting more but instead shouted to me I was on fire. Had wet towels on me all night. Sweet woman to take care of me. A true GFE experience. So beware. Don't wear shorts.[/QUOTE]


Do they require long pants at some of Angkor wat? I remember some of the temples in Thailand you had to have your legs covered

[QUOTE=Berny X]Do they require long pants at some of Angkor wat? I remember some of the temples in Thailand you had to have your legs covered[/QUOTE]

They don't enforce it but short pants are very bad manners.* Women are among the worst offenders - bare shoulders are also considered unacceptable. And while 2 days of temples might be enough, a 2-day pass isn't an option. Unless you planning on returning just for the pdp (and why bother when PP is much better for that) then Angkor Wat is a genuinely once-in-a-lifetime experience so you might as well make the most of it, especially experiencing the huge variation.

As with Thailand, usual etiquette only even more prissy if anything. Things like pointing your feet at a Buddha statue might be bad manners in Thailand whereas in Cambodia these things are often felt personally - even if they don't say anything. There is a strong emotional attachment to (their variation of) Buddhism - they have s.f.a. else, many of them. Don't spit on their dreams . . . It's bad enough being a voyeur to their misery and the least we can try to do IMO is give them some human respect - and Buddha they hold dear. It's linked up with this idea of a legacy to the people that Jayavarman and the other kings of that time left them in the form of these temples.

As someone else pointed out, the museum is quite a good intro. But stuff is always more interesting once you've dipped your toes, so fitting in the museum in-between two days of field trips to the temples would probably work quite well.


*[i] apart from anything else, lightweight cover-up clothing gives you some protection from the sun[/i]