Renting An Apartment In Russia...
RENTING AN APARTMENT IN Ukraine or Russia…
One of the common questions that I see on both Russia and Ukraine threads is whether to book a hotel or an apartment when you visit Odessa, Moscow, Kiev, St. Petersburg, et. al. In my opinion, apartment living is really the only way to enjoy the Former Soviet Union, FSU, without being subjected to high hotel rates, sometimes poor service and a possible lack of privacy that most Western travelers find unacceptable.
Over the years, much has been written about the advantages and disadvantages of apartment and hotel accommodations in the former Soviet Union (FSU), but little has been written about what to look for in an apartment…
Over the last three years in Moscow and Odessa operating an apartment rental business and several years before traveling in the FSU, I have visited at least 300 apartments either as a guest or a potential tenant. In that time, I have formed many opinions and tried to solve them with my apartment rental company. BUT, what I have just realized is that the average traveler, especially one who has never traveled to the FSU, may not understand the significance of some of the more important, for the FSU, features of a true Western/European-style apartment with the owner/operator from either Europe or the USA.
This primer is based on my observations and may not be complete, but it may help you begin to understand the significance and important questions to ask the person who you are considering renting an apartment from in Ukraine or Russia…
For the average traveler to the FSU, their first contact with a company who rents apartments or with the apartment itself is from viewing photos on the internet. Typically the person likes some feature about the company and/or the apartment. However, the first thing that you should know is that what is inside of the four walls that comprise the apartment should only be one of your concerns and no matter how beautiful the apartment is there are many other factors which will all combine to make your stay either comfortable and enjoyable or… a long nightmare!
Your first “real” view of the apartment building may come when you arrive after your long trip to Russia or Ukraine. When you realize that you are going live in “that” building, and hopefully to bring guests to it, because of your exhaustion you may find yourself in denial. You remember that the photos of the interior of the apartment are nice and everything appears so… so organized! Yet, now you look at the building and you see make-shift structures on the side of your building and others nearby… Laundry is hanging out the windows… Balconies look like they will fall if a fly lands and squats for more than a second… You find yourself asking yourself… HOW CAN THIS BE?
To begin, most apartments in Ukraine and Russia were present during the Soviet Union which means that many of the other building residents probably lived in their nearby apartments for years or decades before you arrive. One of the offshoots of this reality is that during Soviet times; NO ONE cared about the common areas of the building or around the building.
This means that the outside of the building, the entrance, stairways, elevators and halls will have most likely endured decades of abuse by both residents and non-residents. This abuse will include trash, graffiti, broken rails/steps, lack of lighting, non-functional elevators, foul odors, dogs and cats and other unexplained ominous conditions… just to name a few.
This situation may be first apparent when you see the entry door to the building. The entry doors to the majority of FSU buildings are in the rear or in a courtyard which can be more isolated than a front entry. The actual entry door will probably be designed to be “secure” or coded, but what does this mean to you?
When you first arrive, you may find the “secure” door wide open or the “secret” code well worn on the numbers so that it takes a local, resident or not, about 5 milliseconds to open the secure door because they know the technique… However, when you arrive home from the market on the first day or late at night with your bride for the night or after attempting to corner the market on vodka at the nearest watering hole, it will take you several minutes, which can seem like hours, and may require a call for help, which is OK… as long as they speak English!
You may ask… Is it really that bad? No, it can get worse, once you get into the building, you may find that it is totally dark, even in the day time! So once in, you may be faced with transiting the strange stairs and halls without light and then inserting your key into the keyhole… all by feel!
However, as bad as the building entry, stairs, elevator, and hall are, you may be surprised at how nice the apartment is… IF it has been remodeled to Western or European-quality standards. Otherwise, you may find a Soviet-style apartment that has been cleaned up, hopefully, and is functional and, hopefully, comfortable. One thing that is common to every Soviet-style apartment, and many newly remodeled apartments as well, is the lack-of screens on the windows! This is not a problem when the snow is flying, but in the other three seasons, if you want some fresh air you will soon find that you are on the day’s menu for every mosquito and biting fly in the nearby oblast! Now you may say that you can easily get by with the window closed… Easy to say when you are sitting at home making reservations, but difficult to achieve when the babushka downstairs or down the hall begins making her daily ration of cabbage soup or begins her regimen of seasonal pickling of various root vegetables!
NO… It can’t be that bad… Can it? No, it can get worse! You’ll soon find that the apartment owner either has not spent the money or did not consider it important to set the apartment up for the constant nemesis of shortages in the FSU… Whether it is water pressure, water supply, no hot water, no water, no heat, no air conditioning, no internet, no washing machine, no toaster, no microwave, no long distance telephone calls, just to name a few of the more common challenges.
Of course, EVERY apartment is open to any problem, but the most frustrating thing is when you call the apartment service you used to rent the apartment only to find that they have to contact the local landlord and ask… WHY? WHEN? WHY SO LONG? I thought YOU were the owner?
All of this time, you are the one suffering when you have NO water… NO hot water… NO water pressure, etc. etc. etc. While it may not seem important when you book, it may become the focal point of your “vacation” when you find you must endure a cold shower just when your hormones and, more importantly, your bride for the night’s hormones are raging and juices are flowing… UNTIL THAT COLD SHOWER SHOCKS EVERYONE BACK TO REALITY!
I know… but it can’t be that bad… Can it??? No, it can still get worse! You see, the apartment service may be the nicest people on earth, BUT if they do not own the apartment, they have to deal with and through the local Russian/Ukrainian landlord who will not see any urgency in a situation that they have had to deal with since they were in swaddling clothes! In fact, any Ukrainian or Russian landlord OR apartment rental company operated by Russians or Ukrainians, even if they have lived in the west, will have a different attitude towards solving your problems in the apartment than you are used to in the West because they understand that THIS IS A FACT OF LIFE in the FSU and is viewed as normal and not an emergency.
The only time I have seen Russian or Ukrainian landlords or apartment providers respond immediately to ANYTHING, is if something is flooding because they know they are libel IF damage is caused to a neighbor’s downstairs apartment!
In reality, this can still be a problem even if the apartment service owns the apartment IF they do not have personnel on staff to deal with these problems, i.e. electricians, plumbers, handyman, because they must still call and get a local service man to recognize the sense of urgency that you feel to solve the problem.
Of course, many times it is not the major problem that really tips you over the edge… It is the small things that a Westerner takes for granted when they check into new accommodations while traveling. Little things like…
paper towels… a fresh bar of soap, in a wrapper… a cork screw… multiple rolls of toilet paper… a toaster… a hair dryer… a personal safe… trash cans... just to name a few!
BUT, my biggest frustration in all of my times renting apartments before I got in the apartment rental business, is the bed linen! It seems that Ukrainian and Russian landlords tend to buy the cheapest sheets that are available, which equates to the smallest! Combine that with the fact that fitted sheets are either not available or not used by locals and all of a sudden you have the “Perfect Storm”! I’ve actually had the apartment providers lay a sheet on the mattress, the bare mattress without a mattress cover or pad! If you can visualize the bottom sheet laying on top of the mattress… the edge of the mattress is actually framing the sheet since the sheet is too small to even attempt to tuck in. BUT, even if the sheet can be tucked in, it is usually so small that after you are in bed, if you make any move other than scratching your nose twice, you’ll soon wake up sleeping on at least part of the bare mattress. In my mind, that is when the nightmares really start because if you are on the bare mattress, WHO ELSE has been on the same bare mattress AND doing what???? People… This is not my definition of SAFE SEX!!!
SO… What do you do and how do you as a first-time visitor to Ukraine/Russia help prevent this from happening to you?
I have prepared a list of questions that you may want to ask your potential apartment provider if it is not covered on the website:
1. Where is the apartment located? Is the area safe? How far is the nearest market? How far from public transportation.
2. What is the front entry door on the building like? What is security like? What is the building like?
3. How much does the airport transfer cost? To? From?
4. Who owns this apartment? Is the owner local in the area? What nationality is the owner? Does he speak English? Will you provide me the phone number of the owner?
5. What happens if I should cancel the reservation after I make a deposit? Are your terms and conditions of rental published on your website? What if I have to depart early? May I use my credit card to pay the deposit? To pay the full bill upon arrival? Do you have your own merchant account or must I use PayPal? I’ve been told PayPal is not accessible in Ukraine or Russia for credit cards issued in the USA/Europe/Canada… is this true?
6. Do you use city central service heat? Hot water? Will the heat/hot water/water be shut off at anytime during my stay? What will you do if it is? Does the apartment have its own boiler for hot water? Heat? Can I control the heat in the apartment myself? Can I control the hot water in the apartment myself?
7. Does the apartment have a back-up water supply? What is the situation with the water pressure? Do you have a pump in the apartment to supplement the water pressure? What happens if the water is shut off?
8. Who do I call if something breaks in the apartment? How long is a typical response? Do you have workmen on the payroll yourself? What kind of workman?
9. Are there lights in the building hallway? What happens if the lights are out in the building stairs/halls?
10. Are there animals on the floor of the apartment? Do the hallways smell? Is the entrance door kept open or is it always locked and secure?
11. Is there an air conditioner? How often do you clean the A/C filters? Are there screens on the windows?
12. Do the bottom sheets fit the bed? Are they fitted sheets? Do the mattresses have mattress pads?
13. Is the apartment equipped with…
a. Paper towels
b. Toilet paper
c. Waste baskets
d. Towels… how many? Can I get extra towels?
e. Laundry soap
f. Bath soap
g. A personal safe
h. Toaster
i. Coffee maker
j. Microwave oven
k. Washing machine
14. If I have a problem, who do I call? 24 hours every day?
15. How thick are the walls? Can I hear the people next door snoring?
These questions and answers may help you to weed out the undesirable locations, apartments, landlords, or apartment service providers. Many of the questions have answers that only you will know the answer because it may or may not be important to you, but many of them have set answers that should be an immediate red flag. For instance, unless an apartment provider has published terms and conditions, you are virtually assured that once they have your deposit, you will never see it again. Of course, sometimes they even tell you that up front!
In addition, if the apartment uses city central heat and hot water, but does not have an individual boiler and a backup water supply, you could find yourself without hot water during the warmer months or without water at any time. Of course, even a back-up water supply will only last so long, but at least it will help smooth out the short outages that are so common in the FSU.
The other really bad situation for you is when you’ve done your homework and booked an apartment only to arrive and find that you are in a totally different apartment. Now, please understand that this is sometimes unavoidable because bad things sometimes happen and an apartment has to be taken out of service or if it is not owned by the apartment rental company, the landlord decides to rent it to someone else. In this case, you must have a comfort level with the integrity of the apartment rental company to be secure that they will put you into an apartment that is of equal or higher standard than the one that you booked.
The last point I will emphasize is that throughout this I mention the nationality of the owner of the apartment service rental company or the landlord. This is not to imply that the person who is not American or European is a bad person, but rather that there could be communication problems along the way if the person does not speak English as well as they speak Russian or Ukrainian. The person may be a very nice person, but they just do not understand and have difficulty communicating or understanding the situation. At the same time, it can be difficult for someone to understand a high-level of customer service if they have either never experienced it and therefore have no role model for its use or they just see no need for customer service in the first place… after all “THIS” is how it has been done in Russia/Ukraine for the past century!
One last caution… Testimonial letters on apartment rental companies are probably one of the most abused things on the Internet. I laugh when I see my competitors with perfectly written letters supposedly written by their guests and I see the same phrases used that are used in the website pages and with the same words misspelled! I understand that it can be tempting to put in letters from your friends and/or to clean up the letters so that they are perfect and say just what you want them to say! BUT, it doesn’t necessarily give the reader an honest opinion of the service and quality of what is being delivered. On top of this, it is very, very unusual for a testimonial to be “perfect”. Normally it is hastily written and grammatical and spelling errors are common, but in my opinion, that makes them real! For that reason, I make sure that the testimonials that go on our website go on with all of the “warts” exposed. If the guest misspelled a word, it stays, if the letter is both positive and negative, you will see it all. Only the personal items relevant to that particular guest’s information may be edited out.
Now, all of that said, I want to emphasize that renting an apartment is the ONLY way to go in Ukraine and Russia… It is more cost effective, more private, and can be more satisfying and comfortable IF you do your homework. For the most part, apartment rental companies that I have worked with are OK people… they are not out to cheat you, but rather they just don’t have the same standards that you are used to and this may be reflected in their properties, their service and their actions… THIS IS YOUR CHALLENGE!